S/S 27 · Chapter II of V
Ten pieces a buyer will meet in every S/S 27 showroom, read house by house. Wide leg trousers and the oversized blazer lead; the pencil skirt, the mini and the slip dress follow, each a ground for print.
116 of 1,186 runway looks cut a wide leg trouser.
Every season has its archetypes, the pieces a buyer meets in every showroom whatever the house. For S/S 27 they are clear. Wide leg trousers appear in 116 of 1,186 runway looks, the oversized blazer in 101, the pencil skirt in 87, the miniskirt in 48 and the slip dress in 41. Around them sit the trench, the bustier, the cargo pant, the oversized oxford shirt and the biker jacket. Each item is read here as the houses cut it: in which material, at which proportion, and what kind of print narrative it can carry.
Each item is read through the houses that cut it, its materials and palette, and the print it is ready to carry.
ITailoring
The most repeated piece of the season, present in 116 runway looks and across twenty houses. Agua Bendita, Alberta Ferretti and Blumarine cut it fluid; Erdem, Isabel Marant, Elie Saab and Ferragamo carry it from day into evening. Gabardine, denim and satin are the grounds, in a palette of black, white and blue. A long, uninterrupted leg is a generous canvas: a vertical stripe, an engineered border at the hem, or a single print worn as a column from waist to floor.
IITailoring
The blazer grows a size and softens its shoulder, in 101 looks and eighteen houses. Christian Dior, Elisabetta Franchi and Agua Bendita lead, with Valentino, Etro, Ferragamo, Hermès and Isabel Marant cutting it in gabardine, linen and tweed. The palette stays grounded in black, brown and navy. Over a slip or a printed dress, the oversized blazer is the frame that lets a print speak; in tweed or a jacquard of its own, it becomes the print narrative itself.
IIISkirts
Narrow, knee-length and back in 87 looks. Alberta Ferretti, Elie Saab and Elisabetta Franchi lead seventeen houses; Monse turns it sheer, Ralph Lauren and Fendi keep it tailored, and Isabel Marant softens it. Gabardine, nappa leather and jersey knit, in black, brown and blue. A straight skirt is the most precise surface in the wardrobe: it holds a placed motif, a brushstroke or a micro-geometric without distortion, which is why Prada paints across it.
IVSkirts
The mini returns in volume, in 48 looks: tiered tulle, puffball shapes and textured frills rather than a flat, short line. Blumarine, Christian Dior, Loewe, Miu Miu and Khaite drive it, and each styles it under oversized tailoring or a soft knit, so the proportion reads short below and generous above. For print, the miniskirt asks for scale control: a motif drawn small enough to survive gathers and tiers, and a colorway that holds when the fabric folds.
VDresses
The slip dress appears in 41 looks and fifteen houses, from Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine and Erdem to Lanvin, Ralph Lauren, Victoria Beckham, Prada and Miu Miu. Satin, chiffon georgette and lace, in beige, black and cream. It is the season's favorite ground for print: Ralph Lauren cuts paisley into it, Elie Saab traces leopard across it. A bias-cut slip moves the motif with the body, so the print has to be drawn for drape, not for a flat board.
VIOuterwear
The trench holds its place in twelve houses. Elisabetta Franchi, Erdem and Ferragamo lead, with Monse, Ralph Lauren, Lanvin and Prada close by. Gabardine stays, but nappa leather and technical nylon join it, in black, beige and white. The material story is where the trench moves most this season, from Monse's sheer version to Ferragamo's tinted latex. For a print narrative, the lining and the belt are the quiet places to set a signature motif.
VIITops
Structure moves to the top half. Agua Bendita, Blumarine and Elie Saab lead eleven houses, with Khaite, Monse, Isabel Marant, Ralph Lauren and Erdem following. Satin, organza and jacquard, in black, white and cream, worn over long skirts and wide trousers. The bustier is a small, closely shaped surface: it rewards jacquard and embroidery designed to the panel, and a floral placed to follow the seams rather than run across them.
VIIITrousers
The utility side of the season, kept to a few houses and cut with care. Isabel Marant, Loewe and Stella McCartney make the cargo pant a considered piece, in gabardine, cotton poplin and, unexpectedly, satin. The palette is black, beige and green. Satin cargo is the signal: utility shapes in luxury grounds. Here print works in the margins, on pocket linings, in a tonal camouflage drawn by hand, or in a micro-geometric that reads as texture at a distance.
IXShirts
The men's shirt, borrowed and enlarged. Givenchy, Loewe and Ralph Lauren lead six houses, with Stella McCartney, Ulla Johnson and Victoria Beckham close by, all in cotton poplin and a palette of white, black and blue. Loewe adds a patterned tie, and Christian Dior's shirting stripes, read in Chapter I, belong to the same family. The oxford shirt is where a stripe or a small check earns its place: a classic shirting print, recolored for the house.
XOuterwear
The biker jacket closes the list in four houses: Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Prada and Victoria Beckham, always in nappa leather. Black, bordeaux and navy, worn over the softest pieces of the season, as Prada does with a pale pink pleated skirt. The jacket is the toughest element in a romantic wardrobe, and the contrast is the point. For a collection, it is the piece that lets a delicate floral or a painterly print look deliberate rather than sweet.
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27 October 2026
Ten pieces define S/S 27 on the runways: wide leg trousers, the oversized blazer, the pencil skirt, the miniskirt, the slip dress, the trench coat, the bustier corset top, cargo pants, the oversized oxford shirt and the biker jacket. Wide leg trousers lead, in 116 of 1,186 runway looks.
Yes. Wide leg trousers are the most repeated piece of the season, present in 116 runway looks across twenty houses, including Agua Bendita, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Erdem, Isabel Marant, Elie Saab and Ferragamo. They are cut in gabardine, denim and satin, in black, white and blue.
The slip dress appears in 41 looks across fifteen houses, led by Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine and Erdem, with Lanvin, Ralph Lauren, Victoria Beckham, Prada and Miu Miu. It is cut in satin, chiffon georgette and lace, in beige, black and cream.
Each item is a different ground for print. A wide leg carries a vertical or engineered motif, the slip dress needs print drawn for drape, and the pencil skirt holds a placed motif without distortion. The studio develops print narratives built for those grounds through MPD Atelier.
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