S/S 27 · Chapter I of V

S/S 27
Prints & Patterns

Nine print narratives for Spring Summer 2027, read from the runways of five fashion capitals. The flower painted, stitched and placed as landscape; paisley back at full scale; stripes and checks loosened for summer.

Chapter I of V Nine directions Releases 20 October 2026
Violet blooms painted across a tiered ruffle maxi dress, Ulla Johnson S/S 27, New York. Ulla Johnson · New York

The season,
in print.

1,186 runway looks. Five fashion capitals. Nine directions.

S/S 27 moves between romance and utility, and print carries the romance. Across 1,186 runway looks in Madrid, Milan, Paris, London and New York, the flower is painted at full scale or stitched in thread, landscapes are set on the body as panels, and paisley returns oversized on chiffon. Stripes and checks loosen into dresses and halters. The counterweight is small and graphic: foulards and micro-geometrics lifted from the scarf drawer. A direction earns its place in this chapter only when it crosses several houses. Nine did. What follows is the studio's reading of each, and what it asks of a print narrative built for next spring.

Nine directions
for S/S 27

Each direction is read through the houses that carry it, and through what it asks of a collection's print narrative.

Blue hydrangea print on a pleated sleeveless dress with an asymmetric hem, Christian Dior S/S 27, Paris.
Christian Dior · Paris

IFloral

Painted & Printed Blooms

The flower is no longer a motif this season; it is the whole surface. Tulips, hydrangeas and roses are painted at a scale that runs from neckline to hem, at Ulla Johnson, Monse, Christian Dior, Loewe, Erdem and Blumarine. The bases stay fluid (chiffon, silk, cotton voile) so the bloom moves with the body. For a print narrative, the lesson is scale: one generous placement, drawn by hand, says more than a dense all-over repeat.

Ivory strapless gown with a full skirt embroidered in scattered wildflowers, Agua Bendita S/S 27, Madrid.
Agua Bendita · Madrid

IIBlooms in thread

Embroidered Florals

The flower leaves the screen for the needle. Beaded, raised and thread-painted, it reaches couture level at Elie Saab and Valentino, turns folk and botanical at Agua Bendita, and appears in quieter form at Khaite, Chanel and Louis Vuitton. The studio reads it as a print direction, not a fabric one: the motif carries the story. Artwork drawn with stitch direction and density in mind lets a single floral travel from printed silk to the embellished piece.

Sheer red and sand candy stripes on a loose slip dress with a handkerchief hem, Loewe S/S 27, Paris.
Loewe · Paris

IIIStripes

Candy & Pyjama Stripes

Stripes loosen and turn sheer. Candy stripes run across chiffon, pyjama stripes across poplin, and the line is allowed to drift with the cut. Monse and Lanvin push bold diagonals and rugby widths, Christian Dior keeps to shirting, and Loewe is strongest, pairing the stripe with fringed, undone hems. Gabriela Hearst and Stella McCartney follow. The stripe is the most disciplined print in the wardrobe, and S/S 27 relaxes it: a colorway story first, a geometry second.

Iridescent violet blur print on a high-neck column dress with a green floral appliqué at the shoulder, Valentino S/S 27, Paris.
Valentino · Paris

IVWatercolor & brushstroke

Painterly Blur

Prints that look smudged, out of focus or brushed by hand, where the edge of the motif dissolves. Valentino's iridescent blur and Monse's fringed watercolors lead the direction, with Christian Dior, Etro and Zimmermann close behind. Prada takes it graphic, laying broad brushstrokes on straight skirts. This is the direction where the artist's hand is the print: an original painting, scanned and engineered to the garment, carries an authority a digital gradient cannot imitate.

Engraved landscape print on a bias-cut slip gown finished with a frayed tulle hem, Givenchy S/S 27, Paris.
Givenchy · Paris

VPhoto prints

Photographic Landscapes

The print becomes a picture. Givenchy engraves landscapes across bias-cut silk, Stella McCartney prints marine life and airbrushed palms, and Agua Bendita plants a field of flowers, printed and then embroidered over. Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Sandy add their own scenes. The shared grammar is placement: the image is set on the garment as a panel, not repeated across the bolt. For a house, this is engineered print territory, drawn to the pattern piece rather than to the yard.

Oversized bordeaux and gold paisley on a fluid silk maxi dress, Etro S/S 27, Milan.
Etro · Milan

VIPaisley

70s Paisley & Ikat

Paisley returns at full scale, and it returns to the 70s. Etro leads in oversized bordeaux and gold on fluid silk, Isabel Marant fades it to a lilac boho, and Ralph Lauren cuts it into the slip dress, with Valentino and Gabriela Hearst close by. Ikat travels alongside as its softer-edged relative. It is worn head to toe, on chiffon and silk satin. The S/S 27 paisley rewards drawing over archive: a teardrop redrawn in today's proportions, not lifted from a vintage scarf.

Red and green plaid on a crossed halter top and a bead-studded skirt, Miu Miu S/S 27, Paris.
Miu Miu · Paris

VIIChecks

Gingham & Plaid

Checks leave tailoring and move into dresses and halters. Loewe keeps them collegiate, while Valentino and Miu Miu work green and red ginghams and Christian Dior follows. The scale shrinks and the hand softens, in cotton and silk rather than wool. The S/S 27 gingham is a summer check read with a couture eye: a familiar grid, recolored and set on drape so it stops reading as uniform. The colorway is where a house makes it its own.

Leopard spots on a draped silk slip dress traced with a climbing floral vine, Elie Saab S/S 27, Paris.
Elie Saab · Paris

VIIIAnimal

Leopard, Tiger & Wings

The animal story is kept tonal. Leopard appears on silk and lamé at Elie Saab and Saint Laurent, tiger is woven as jacquard into Chanel tweed, and Zimmermann lifts the direction off the ground with a butterfly-wing print. Elisabetta Franchi joins them. Sand, gold and cognac replace high contrast, so the spot reads as texture before it reads as animal. For S/S 27, the most considered leopard is the one that almost disappears into its ground.

Micro-geometric foulard print on a straight midi skirt with a butter-yellow leather jacket, Louis Vuitton S/S 27, Paris.
Louis Vuitton · Paris

IXScarf & micro-geo

Foulard Prints

The scarf drawer opens onto the garment. Foulard prints, tie-silk micro-geometrics and bandana motifs move from accessory to skirt, shirt and matching set. Louis Vuitton leads with foulards and mini-geometric skirts, Miu Miu answers with silk geometric sets, and Chanel and Prada follow. The scale is small, the drawing graphic, the repeat tight. Between a plain and a check, the foulard is the season's quiet constant, and the place where a house's archive motif can be rescaled into something new.

Chapter I in full.

Tell us where to send it. The Prints & Patterns chapter opens on the next screen, and a copy arrives in your inbox.

  • Nine print directions read from the S/S 27 runways, each with the houses that carry it.
  • Painted and embroidered florals, 70s paisley, painterly blur, gingham, leopard and foulard.
  • The same authorial eye behind every MPD commission.

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Offered by the studio.

Chapter I releases Tuesday 20 October.

The chapter PDF opens here on release day. The reading of all nine directions is already on this page.

20 October 2026

Questions on
S/S 27 prints

What are the key print trends for Spring Summer 2027?

Nine print directions define S/S 27 on the runways of Madrid, Milan, Paris, London and New York: painted and printed blooms, embroidered florals, candy and pyjama stripes, painterly blur, photographic landscapes, 70s paisley and ikat, gingham and plaid, tonal leopard and tiger, and foulard micro-geometrics. The flower leads, painted at full scale or rendered in thread.

Which houses are driving 70s paisley for S/S 27?

Etro leads with oversized bordeaux and gold paisley on fluid silk. Isabel Marant softens it to a faded lilac boho, Ralph Lauren cuts it into the slip dress, and Valentino and Gabriela Hearst follow. It is worn head to toe, on chiffon and silk satin.

Is gingham a trend for Spring Summer 2027?

Yes. For S/S 27, gingham and plaid move from tailoring into dresses and halters, at small scale and softened in cotton and silk. Loewe keeps the check collegiate, while Valentino and Miu Miu work it in green and red.

How can a fashion house use these print directions in its own collection?

Read each direction as a grammar, not a motif to reproduce. The studio translates these readings into bespoke print narratives through MPD Atelier, drawn from scratch around a house's collection DNA, and into season-wide print and color strategy through Fashion Envisioning.

The season is read. The print narrative is still yours to write.

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