S/S 27 · Chapter IV of V
Six material directions for Spring Summer 2027: open knits and crochet, raised 3D surfaces, paillettes, true sheers, fringe and feathers, and a new wet-look of tinted PVC and latex. The hand of the season, read for print.
Six material directions. Texture as a second print.
In S/S 27 the surface does as much work as the print. Across 1,186 runway looks in Madrid, Milan, Paris, London and New York, knits open into crochet, petals and beads lift off the body, paillettes move from night into day, and organza and tulle are worn openly, with the layer beneath part of the look. Fringe and feathers give the season its movement, and a new wet-look of tinted PVC and latex makes transparency a statement. For a print studio these are not separate stories: texture changes how color reads, and sometimes it replaces print altogether.
Each material direction is read through the houses that carry it, and through what it changes for print.
IOpen work
Openwork knits and crochet are worn as full looks this season, not as accessories. Hermès works them in tonal reds, Etro in macramé and lace-knit naturals, and Alberta Ferretti and Isabel Marant follow. Skin shows through the stitch, so the knit behaves like a sheer. The S/S 27 crochet is a pattern story in its own right: the stitch is the motif, and a print set beneath an open knit becomes a second layer of narrative.
II3D relief & embroidery
Surfaces lift off the body: 3D petals, beaded flowers, frayed and tufted textures. Christian Dior works feathered and petal knits, Loewe beads its florals, and Blumarine, Agua Bendita and Zimmermann follow. Here texture replaces print as the focal point. For a print narrative, the direction is an invitation to design in relief: a floral drawn so it can be printed on one piece and embroidered or appliquéd on the next, one story across flat and raised surfaces.
IIIPaillettes & beads
Oversized paillettes and liquid sequins, worn for day as much as for night. Ferragamo uses black disc paillettes, Elisabetta Franchi works red and bronze, and Ralph Lauren and Christian Siriano follow. The shimmer is worn monochrome, head to toe, so the color carries the look. Paillettes are a print by other means: the size, spacing and direction of each disc draw a pattern, and a tonal motif printed on the base can glow through between them.
IVTransparency
Organza, tulle and fine-gauge knit are worn openly over the body, and the layer underneath becomes part of the look. Monse cuts a sheer trench and sheer suiting, Ferragamo makes the pencil skirt transparent, and Blumarine, Agua Bendita, Gabriela Hearst and Fendi follow. The sheer trend changes how a print is seen: on organza it floats, doubles and shifts with the layer beneath. A print designed for transparency plans for both surfaces at once.
VMovement
Fringe and feathers are the season's movement fabric. Alberta Ferretti and Erdem finish hems in feathers, Givenchy and Monse let long fringe fall, and Elisabetta Franchi and Blumarine follow. They appear at the hem, at the cuff, or as the whole garment. The direction meets print in Chapter I, where Loewe fringes its stripes and Monse its watercolors: a printed ground that frays or fringes at its edge, so the motif keeps moving after the fabric ends.
VITransparent wet-look
The newest surface of the season: clear and tinted PVC and latex on trench coats, dresses and skirts. Ferragamo leads in tinted latex, in sky, olive and cognac, with Elisabetta Franchi and Prada following. It is worn as a layer over other fabrics, and the transparency is the point. A wet-look layer turns whatever lies beneath into its print: a floral, a stripe or a check seen through tinted latex reads as a new colorway, without a new screen.
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10 November 2026
Six material directions define S/S 27: open knits and crochet, raised 3D texture and embroidery, sequins and paillettes, true sheers in organza and tulle, fringe and feathers, and a new transparent wet-look in tinted PVC and latex.
Yes. Openwork knits and crochet are worn as full looks rather than accessories. Hermès works them in tonal reds and Etro in macramé and lace-knit naturals, with Alberta Ferretti and Isabel Marant following.
Ferragamo leads with tinted latex in sky, olive and cognac, on trench coats, dresses and skirts, and Elisabetta Franchi and Prada follow. The wet-look is worn as a transparent layer over other fabrics.
Texture changes how a print reads. A print under an open knit or organza becomes a second layer, paillettes draw a pattern of their own, and a wet-look layer recolors whatever lies beneath. The studio designs print narratives with the fabric in mind through MPD Atelier.
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